I looked at my view count today and realized I am likely to cross the half million mark in the next couple days!
This calls for a small Contest and Prizes!!!!!
So I'm going to make it simple. Comment on this post on my blog (if you are reading this on facebook you will need to click the link to my actual blog). Please tell me one thing you would like to see (or see more of) in the next year on Lost In The Warp!
Thats it :)
Some time next week I will pick comments at random (probably using a number generator). I will then contact those people and send them a lovely little surprise from my shelves of mini stuff! I don't know how many prizes or what yet but I'm sure I can dig up some fun and random things :)
Thanks to everyone who has been kind enough to follow my little corner of the miniverse! Be good to each other!
The first picture I ever posted on this blog - not sure what I was thinking but it sure looks like fun!
When I decided to pick up a small Trollblood force (HA! I should have known better...my friend Erik and I now own almost the entire faction worth of models between us) one of the units that enticed me to make this leap was the Long Rider Cavalry. Even before I knew the rules the idea of a fast crushing cavalry unit of mounted Trollkin just really appealed to me - so I decided to buy them.
Holy crap they are an expensive unit - Over $100 even before Horthol! But..... they were so cool, and I heard the rules for them were also awesome - Totally going to be worth it anyway. Right?
So I dove in!
.... And then I opened the box to begin the assembly.....
Oh Crap.
Seriously - what a load of crap.
I was flabbergasted - these were some of the worst fitting models I have ever built - and I built that jacked up P.O.S. Forgeworld Thunderbolt where I had to completely rebuild the wing mounts and whole sections of the body......Ok maybe a they weren't quite as bad as that....
And it turned out ok in the end....... ;)
For the price of a colossal or gargantuan, I think this little unit of models should have almost assembled themselves. Instead they had ENORMOUS gaps. No two halves fit properly - not a single pair out of 6. The Molding lines were a real pain and a couple of the parts required a significant amount of filing, grinding and/or filling because one side of the cast or mold line was lower than the other.
Bad as it is, this picture does not show the true extent problems faced by belly halves that required major filing/dremelling to even out or the poor fit and finish of the riders. I can only hope that I had a particularly bad batch and that this is not the usual situation faced by people with these models....
In the end I used apoxie sculpt and resculpted the center section of each model. Hair textures and straps, some armour plates. It was a lot of work to be honest and took all impetus I had to complete this unit and flushed it away. They have sat unfinished for about a year now. I have played them riderless in friendly games to get a feel for them several times, but still they have sat unfinished.
Longrider by Bakaryu
What is more, the last year has seen many changes in the Trollblood line - notably many larger proportioned figures - making these older long riders look a little puny by comparison.... Mind you I really like mixing older and newer sculpts - showing a populace of varied height and size, Also it makes sense that the absolute biggest trollkin would be less likely to be mounted and massively weighing down their rides..... that seems more a job for somewhat slighter kin. So I took another look at these models,and realized that the biggest and least fun part of the job (basic assembly) was already done.
Whats more, when I saw the cool Bear mounted versions by bakaryu on the pp forums I could feel my interest rising once more. As I got into the swing of things converting my Highwaymen and 2 Fire Eater Units, I knew I was finally ready to revisit the toughalows! The PP insider discussing Longriders as being the most powerful cavalry unit in MK3 sealed the deal. Time to level up the Longriders!
Much more impressive!
So what could I do to make these models better. I initially thought of swapping the upper body of some of the models but was unconvinced that the legs would look right under one of the plastic torsos - so instead I decided to find ways to add a bit of added bulk and some character to the existing riders. The first idea that stuck was to upgrade their shields. The ones that came with the Warders are super cool and much larger than the little target bucklers carried by the riders (and old kriel warriors) - they would certainly add some bulk to the profile! I had an unbuilt box of Warders (since the nerf I was in less of a rush to build another unit anyway!) but felt that I might want to use these awesome shields in multiple places and applications so I broke out my CMON Instant Mold and made a press mold of the shield I liked best. Soon enough I had a full set for the unit and with only a smidge more work added some unique battle damage and amulets/trophies to some of them to differentiate. I used the actual plastic one on the unit leader because you can clearly see the inside of the shield and my press molded shields are really best seen from the front. I also replaced the heads of a couple of the riders with armored helmets from my bits box (from Boomhowlers unit IIRC)
In breaking out my box of warders I was reminded of something else that I had squirreled away for a conversion! You see - my first warder unit had already been filled with characterful tweaks and weapon swaps, and when I had planned to run two - I had also planned a little something for the second group. Whereas the first unit had all gone for hammers and bludgeoning weapons, I had planned the second squad to have all axes....not just any style of axe though - ones that would command a little respect and attention. As such, I happened to have nearly a squads worth of "Lola"'s ready to use! The iconic axe of the Butcher in each of his incarnations is just such a cool and brutal design! It would have served the warders well - but I think it will be even better utilized to replace the small but ridiculously powerful "Cavalry Axe" carried by each long rider! Also with the Warders are some really cool armoured skirt/thigh pieces. Horthol the Longrider character also has these but the regular riders don't..... A couple more press molds and bingo I have matching leg armour to bulk up the riders that little bit more!
Oh yes this is getting much better! Now that the riders are looking a little bulkier, I decided to add a bit more armour and detail to the toughalows. Once again I grabbed my Instant Mold - this time one that I had previously pressed of the Bouncer's shield when I was making the shoulder pad for Frank (my Dire Troll Bomber). This time I only filled the center of the shield with putty to create a smaller but still really cool looking plate. I also grabbed some of the smaller shields I had and played around with fitting them as additional plating for the mounts. A few extra pieces of stowage/kit and they really started to look great!
So a year on, I finally found the inspiration and impetus to build my longriders... But what of their fearless leader Horthol? To see what I have done with him, and the rest of the (now mostly finished) unit - I reserve the right to a couple more tweaks and surprises!- you will have to check back next week!
So just a quick update - a couple minor conversions on some of my trollblood models.
I generally dislike too much repetition in the models in my army and try to convert, even in just small ways, to give each model some personality. I still try to stick to the PP conversion guidelines so that I can take them to major events should I wish - and certainly to keep opponents from being confused.
In a 5 man unit like champions there really is no reason for 2 pairs of pseudo "twins" - I decided the best way to deal with this - but still keep them as clear members of this unit - was to keep the easily recognisable heads and arms but do some simple body swaps with other appropriately heavily armoured trolls. Here are the results:
I used a body leftover from a highwayman with the champion head and arms. Base is an insert from the CMON/Micro Art Studios line - I love these and will be using them throughout my army!
Still a little flash to clean up but looking pretty good :)
A similar body swap but I also did a small weapon swap with this one using the axe from a rover. I think it makes for a more dynamic piece and am pretty happy with my unit now.
Also you might have noticed that this second one is on a base that is too small. When I backed the Kickstarter it came with packs that included a variety of sizes. My plan is to still use these smaller ones with their variety of details but then to fill in the remaining base space with my own textures/fills/etc. So worry not - this will be dealt with!
Final note - The photo background is also new - it is one of the ones I got in a kickstarter bundle from Games and Gears a long time ago and then promptly misplaced. Now that they have been found I really wanted to try one. I do need to steam out the folds but am pretty pleased overall with the quality and think they will be super useful!
In honour of one of my favorite artists/modellers - Mig Jimenez - coming to Canada for HeritageCon
(March 20th 2016 in Hamilton Ontario - HERE is a link to their site) I have decided to post a review of one of his books - the really cool and incredibly useful FAQ2.
I love to read. I love books, magazines, websites -just about anything I can lay hands on - doubly so when the material is hobby related and can offer me real challenges and insight. First let me say, I would consider
my self primarily a war-game
miniature painter though I do and have really started to explore more historical subjects.
Having often looked at historical models on
the internet or in magazines I was greatly inspired, particularly by the work of Mig Jimenez, Mike Rinaldi and a few others to try this and that out and look
to combine the realistic effects I see on models with the creative
freedom allowed by SF and Fantasy subjects. Amongst my "go to" resources for techniques and inspiration - Imperial Armour Model Masterclass Volume One by Phil Stutcinskas and FAQ2 by Mig Jimenez! The book (first released about 4 years ago now) has sold thousands of copies worldwide and even went to a revised second run where MIG had taken the advice and critique of modellers around the world and made some further improvements to the book (mostly size of pictures, flow and text tweaks) to ensure that this book is of the utmost quality.
Just before Christmas 2015 AK Interactive put the English edition of this amazing book into a third printing!
From their site:
"The third edition of our best-seller, first published by AK four years ago, and available in a limited edition for this Christmas. Considered as the modelling bible for military vehicles, containing all the modern techniques that you need, to raise your modelling to the very highest level. This title is suited for beginners and the advanced modeller alike. The book has 320 pages, more than 1500 colour photographs."
In the opening of F.A.Q.2, Mig does such a fantastic job of describing what exactly this book is, that I’ll just let him do it here:
“...this book is like a technical
manual used by a car mechanic. You take for granted that the mechanic
already has the skills to do the job, the manual only helps to solve
more difficult technical problems. However, the manual on its own will
not turn you into a mechanic. If on the other hand, you are an
experienced modeler, with plenty of finished models under your belt or
have even won some contests, then you have found the perfect book that
will help you take the next step on your journey.
This is technically the sequel to his highly successful “FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
of the AFV Painting Techniques” (published in 2005 by Andrea Press, but
now out of print for some time) but is very much a completely new book as well. It covers a large gamut of techniques not seen in the previous incarnation of F.A.Q. such as modulation style, Streaking effects, Salt weathering and the "hairspray" technique pioneered by Phil Stutcinskas. Each section is an involved step by step explaining the application of mud, rust, chipping, fuel stains etc.
On page 19 of the book Mig states, "The
present book is not exactly the second part of the book I published
years ago, as much as an update of that book. It is possible to
say that FAQ1 is now obsolete, because things have changed so much."
Unlike the original FAQ, there is essentially nothing on construction at all. The large focus here is on finishes and weathering though it also features some REALLY COOL chapters on composition in dioramas and vignettes. Also Featured
are chapters on composition in dioramas, terrains, vignettes and much
more.
Sections include:
Priming: a proper section with meaningful advice and discussion
of various types of primer and application methods
Base Colour
Colour Modulation: OK, this is a big section (which makes sense considering that Mig and his former MIGProductions partner Adam Wilder are the two key figures in putting this technique in the spotlight to begin with!) This is an excellent guide, very comprehensive, offering several examples with differing degrees and purposes of
modulation. Some very nice photos.
Panelling: briefly includes outlining techniques and also using masks and modulation type methods.
Washes and Filters: two sections, relatively brief
Streaking: covers in some depth both grime streaks as well as running rust streaks. Rain comes later.
Oil techniques: quite interesting that Mig sees oil paint as a
medium that has gained increasing significance for AFV modelling; here
he explores some techniques with AFVs that relate to those used with
figures, such as shading and highlights.
Rain Marks: essentially more streaks but watery and subtle.
Hairspray and Chipping Fluid. One of the happening techniques
of the moment, and it gets over twenty pages with detailed techniques
and variations explained. No-one will be able to resist trying it out
after reading this section.
Chipping: lots here too - principles; with a brush (8 pages on that!); sponge; more hairspray; salt.
Rust/Dust/Mud: all cool stuff.
Oil and Fuel: “Theory of oil” – nice explanation and source
photos, though mostly concerned with how to use AK Interactive products
specific to this purpose, not more generic materials – more on that
later.
Tracks: goes into painting finishes with acrylics, acrylics-enamel- pigments, Blacken-It, and painting spare links.
Special effects: a section mixing metal effects, leaves,
transfers, headlamps, wheel masks
Painting Accessories: big step by step photos with less text. Four pages on oil drums alone, three on
jerry cans, then ammo boxes, helmets, buckets, guns, sacks etc…. awesome starting points for learning
Simple dioramas: 45 pages starts off with some quick techniques
using DAS clay and then goes into really quite a lot of theory about
the composition of elements within a diorama, using lots of arrows and
circles. This is something I have taught extensively on at conventions etc. and it will be a nice addendum to what I usually do.
Gallery: another 45 pages, and you know what to expect here;
high quality models to admire and be inspired by, some of which I
recognized as having seen before, while others were new to me.
I still love this one....
This
is an amazing book for any AFV Model Builder. Although I consider my personal skill
level to be a little better than average, I think this book has helped me to set my goals ever higher and has definitely helped me to achieve many - it inspires as well as teaches. As to cost, this book at 57 Euro (approx. $63 USD/$87 CAD) isnt
super cheap BUT compared to what I have spent on magazines ($10-15 for
60 pages and half of it being ads) this is a DEAL - high quality paper/
beautiful colour, and sharp images! Whats more is that the second and third editions of this book have greatly edited text to make the translation and description much more clear than in the first edition. (my copy is a first edition sent to me by Mig that I treasure greatly but having flipped through the 2nd edition I had to admit the text was somewhat an upgrade!)
Do Yourself a favor, click on AKInteractive to check this out. Thank me later.
With the biggest scariest steps out of the way, my first bust (Knight Models Boromir) was really coming together - but there was still a great deal to do.
I have long been an advocate for aiming to use different surface finishes and contrast of luster across a model (inspired by David Rodriquez and his slayer sword winning tyranids way back in 2007!) and while I was pleased with the effects and surfaces so far, I thought it was time to really push this with my metallic areas. I had actually acquired a new range of metallic paint for this project because I saw a sample of one golden tone that I felt filled a gap in the ones I already owned, and if you are going to order one paint, well it would be churlish not to try a couple more at the same time - helps make the shipping seem more reasonable right? ;P
Am I ever glad I did.
Dark Star Metals makes some of the most beautiful metallic paints I have ever worked with. They have exquisite colours - great coverage, superior lustre and they intermix like magic. When finished I gave them a quick polish with a soft cloth and wow do they shine like genuine metal. Just. So. Good. Find them on Facebook as Dark Star Miniatures or on their website.
I used several of the paints and mixed them together in varying amounts. The results were these:
I also began to clean up the leather strap and painted it in a flat black (AMMO of Mig Jimenez A.MIG-0033 Rubber and Tires) Mixed with a drop of P3 Coal Black. I then highlighted this in a textural way with additional coal black and some small amounts of ScaleColor Nacar (a warm grey/brown tone) working to make it look like a real worn/well used leather finish - again inspired by something that Fernando Ruiz of FER miniatures showed me last spring :) (Thanks Fernando!).
In between drying times I also started into the shield. I was inspired to try something though I'm not 100% sure why - perhaps I was just feeling brave seeing as how well everything else had gone and that it was just the shield - more easily stripped if it all went very poorly! I took three of my Scale 75 Scalecolour paints and began to layer them in random patterns with sponges and stippling with old brushes. The resulting pattern was an incredible texture and provided a beautiful warm base over which I glazed several filters of SC54 Navy Blue and a touch of P3 Coal Black. The result was very pleasing to me and I have received more compliments on how cool that part looks than maybe any other lol!
With the metal and leather taken care of and the shield in progress, I began to work in earnest on the hair and small details like the ropes - as well as fine tuning the colours in the face. On a sunny day I sat it on the rail of my deck and shot these pics.
While it can be seen in the first one above, I think the one of the back does the best job of illustrating the break between the two sides of this bust and the transition of warm and cool tone.
I am really pleased that it is genuinely present in the figure - especially the face - without overwhelming the model and making it look like a strange OSL glow. I knew going into this piece that it could be a potentially confusing and polarizing choice for viewers, but I am still very pleased.
With a bit more cleanup and some painting of the fur trim around the bottom this paintjob could be called done...... But a great bust is not presented as paintjob alone. It requires something special to bring it head and shoulders above the competition (pun intended!). Boromir was going to require a great base - and I cant think of ANYONE who makes finer display bases than Wayne Rogers of Waynes Bases. In this case I had bought one from him several years ago not even sure as to what I would put on it - but it was so absolutely incredible I couldn't resist!
Ebony in the center with a laser engraved golden oak replica of the one ring surrounding it. This base was a work of art in and of itself. Here was a plinth that would add to the story element, the beauty and not just compliment but enhance the craftsmanship element of this presentation.
Thank you Wayne. You are the absolute pinnacle.
NEXT WEEK - The project completed with a GALLERY OF FINISHED PICTURES!!!!!
So WAAAAY back in January 2015 I laid out the things I wanted to accomplish this year and foremost among those was to complete a bust of Boromir by Knight Models for GenCon. I wrote:
A couple years ago I started to prepare my own sculpted bust of Boromir, but when I saw this one I stopped - there was little point as this one is so good. Boromir has always been my favorite character from LOTR and having Sharpe's Sean Bean play him in the films was a fantastically cool choice. I would like to finish this for the large category in the GenCon painting competition. I have the plinth already (made several years ago by Wayne of Wayne's Bases for the first planned bust) and I am thinking about trying for a paint job that plays on the duality of Boromir's character - having one side of the face warmer and the other side cooler suggesting the influence of the ring working upon him. A little ambitious for a first try? Perhaps - but I have everything to gain in the experience and nothing to lose but my own mind! Well, I did it. And I'm Darn proud of the results - but I'm getting a little ahead of myself. Lets talk about the kit itself first and show you how I painted it before skipping right to the reveal ;). This will probably take a couple posts so lets get to it! So the kit comes in a really nice looking little box, which I feel is just slightly too small for the contents. The box was literally bulging when it arrived in the post. This aside my cast was luckily whole and unbroken and on first blush was pretty clean. The cleanup was for the most part as expected - wash, some small mold lines to file/sand (wear a mask it is resin!) and a couple little bubbles to fill. If it wasn't for competition I could probably have overlooked a bit of this, but I took my time - watered down some apoxie sculpt and broke out the 600 and 1200 grit to make sure it was right. Took only one evening to clean, that's pretty great. The sculpt is beautiful - looks very much like Sean Bean and has some really nice combinations of fine sculptural detailing and broad smooth surfaces. I really like the way the hair flows and the texture of it as well. Wasn't 100% sold on the sculpted ropes - but not enough to redo them. As much as I can be critical - I was (and am) genuinely over the moon pleased with this piece! Once prepped I hit it with both black and a light grey primer (Ammo of Mig) to establish a sense of light and volume. I then got out VGC Night Blue and began to establish some cool tones in my shadows. I then added VMC Intermediate Blue to the mix - this softens the colour in the fabric somewhat. I also used Golden Brand Dioxanine Purple to basecoat the cape (fabulous paint SUPER pigmented - but a little harder to clean from the airbrush!). I still left a lot of light showing in the ripples of the fabric as this undercoat is really to set tone rather than fully paint. I also sprayed in a small amount of badger FreakFlex transparent blue - basically the same as the more well known "ghost tints" this is a translucent film which can tint colours without adding great opacity. With that in place, I masked off the sprayed areas with blu- tack and saran wrap and grabbed my VMA Camo black brown (as my readers know this my "go to" for a warm dark colour) and again began to lay out a sense of volume in the hair as well as using it to preshade the deepest areas. I really want to pick up some of the black masking putty I have seen some other painters use - if you are a painter who has tried it - do leave a comment and let me know what you thought (if you are the manufacturer and want to send me some to review I wont argue with you either lol!) Seriously though I think I will definitely need to pick something like this up for future projects! Well I think this is a good start and my wife is starting to wonder if I plan on making it up to bed tonight so I think I will log off and continue next time with the most interesting and complicated part - painting skin and a full on damask pattern!! Cya in a week (ooooh cliff hanger!)
Some people emailed after last weeks article reviewing the awesome IN COMBAT by Mig Jimenez asking what the rest of my Go-To list of highly recommended books/resources for painters are.
So since y'all asked here they are (in no particular Order):
This book is a bit pricey BUT is also quite long and covers a really wide range of finishes and techniques with detailed photo breakdowns. It covers Priming, Colour Modulation, Paneling, Washes, Filters, Streaking, Oil Techniques, Rain marks, Chipping, Rust, Dust, Mud, Oil and Fuel, Tracks, Mixed metallic effects,, Weathering powders, Transfers, Foliage, Accessories, Dioramas, Composition and more....
When I think of the money I have sunk into historical modelling magazines to get articles with a fraction of this info...ugh best not to think of that.
Some of the english translations in this book leave a little to be desired but it is clear enough. Several of the techniques shown are also demonstrating specific products that are unique to AK Interactive (and subsequent split in creating the mirrored initial releases for Ammo of Mig Jimenez) but the universality of the approach is still clear. An amazing book that has great breadth and MORE than enough content to warrant the investment.
NOTE: AVAILABLE AS A DIGITAL DOWNLOAD VERSION AS WELL AND I WILL POST A FULL REVIEW SOON!
Imperial Armour Model Masterclass Volume 1 - Mark Bedford and Phil Stutcinskas - published by Forgeworld
This has been my first stop for showing and explaining (and learning!) techniques for many years now. Master modelers Phil Stutcinskas and Mark Bedford take the reader through a variety of projects that show a lot of really cool techniques. Hard bound and beautifully laid out this clearly premium book is really clever in its approach. My only critique is that they discuss a lot of techniques in terms of colours and materials that are no longer produced. It isn't that these cant be extrapolated for other paint ranges but sometimes it feels as though it is very specific choices that aren't clearly explained (what quality is it that this particular colour adds to the effect - so that i could choose another hue of appropriate warmth or translucency etc..).
Volume 2 of this series was also good but not AS good or expository as this one in terms of bringing forward techniques and finishes for painters to explore and develop on.
That being said, I LOVE VOLUME 1! Such a great range of subjects, so many great techniques. I still refer back to this book often in my own work. Ironically enough, I could not have made my FW best of show winning trench diorama without it - see my gallery tab above for pics of this piece - one of my favorites that I have ever made!
Painting Buddha - If you are a miniature painter and aren't aware of these guys - then you probably aren't online....which means you aren't reading this blog either.... hmmm. It is hard to be a part of internet painter communities and completely miss the work that these guys are trying to do.
Check on their You Tube channel to see some of their free videos - what they call their "community college" and you will see nothing but the highest production values showing solid techniques from some of the best painters (Ben Komets never ceases to amaze me - I seriously hope he puts out a book on painting skin tones some day....).
With your help, Painting Buddha has become one of the fastest growing miniature painting communities out there. Our mission is simple: Grow our community of extraordinary miniature painters and gamers, help others, help you to 'BE a better painter' and have a lot of fun in the process.
They work hard to try and create a community of painters learning together. There are several ways to become a part of this - one is to become a patreon member supporting their videos.
This way you get access to all the videos they make as well as the ability to interact with the artists themselves.
Another is to buy one of their model/tutorial video combo packs. I am looking forward to one announced in conjunction with the amazing guys over at NutsPlanet to do a combo of a dvd and the Viking Maiden Bust - which looks strikingly like Ragnar's wife from the show Vikings! Too cool. I really hope to get that one for myself - and will review it for y'all when I do!
In the meantime, Here is one of their free videos. Please give these guys some serious consideration if you are looking to improve your painting. It will be well worth the investment!
Until Next Time - Enjoy!
PS - IF ANY OF YOU HAVE AN ABSOLUTE "GO TO" RESOURCE YOU WANT TO SHARE JUST HIT THAT COMMENT BUTTON AND LETS SEE WHAT WE CAN DO :)
This is breaking some new ground by really showing Sci-Fi and miniature gaming modelers how some of the key techniques used in military modelling these days can transfer directly across and allow for great creative freedom in the process.
It covers several types of chipping as well as streaking, filtering, general use for enamel products in combination with acrylics. It does provide really solid and clear step by step process shots that don't skimp on detail or steps.
I love how the lessons in the book really scaffold on each other and avoid repetition. It trusts the reader to learn the techniques in relation to one another and to be able to back up and review previous techniques instead of filling space rehashing them (as has been my complaint with a few recent books and tutorials I have seen).
I also like that it is technique specific and not colour specific - One book I looked through recently was more a list of the colours used to paint several different models/factions using essentially the same techniques over and over, great if you ant to emulate a single painters style/design, but not to learn foundation techniques in the more universal sense.
This book definitely does NOT fall into that same trap.
In Combat addresses conversion work, surface finishes and development, colour modulation, lighting, surface differentiation and has a great gallery in the end which shows a wide variety of mecha models with a huge range of weathering and finishes that show just how diverse these techniques can be.
This book is now on my automatic "Go-To" list for introducing techniques to painters and directing them to the best value in an instructional resource.
To anyone looking to explore chipping and weathering I would give this book a rating of: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
As an additional Note - If you decide to pick up this book Ammo is also offering bundled packs of weathering products that follow the lessons in the book so that you can get to work recreating the techniques as seen in the book right away. HERE is a link. Further - I want to send a shout out to Iain Hamilton at Ammo USA - An absolute pleasure to deal with - Ammo USA fills orders fast and their customer service and communication is beyond reproach. One more reason to support a company that a) listens to their customers b) innovates super cool products instead of just waiting to follow others and c) shares lessons, blogs, demos and info in a great communicative way to build community around the world. Keep up the great work Mig, Iain, Carlos and all the rest who make up the AMMO of Mig Jimenez product family :)
So as many of my readers know, I supervise a games club for local kids with board games (like Zombies Keep Out!), card games (like BANG! - ONE OF THE BEST GAMES I HAVE EVER PLAYED!) and miniature based games (like Super Dungeon Explore and DUST:Tactics) and regular leagues for my favorite miniature game(s) Warmachine/Hordes aka "WARMAHORDES!"
Speed painted Menoth
I find that it is the miniatures games that bring in the most kids and the most attention. Seeing cool tables full of beautiful scenery and cool armies really appeals. I collect starter forces wherever I can get a good deal and have used my promotional support from Privateer Press' Press Ganger program to ensure that all kids interested can get a start in this game/community regardless of financial standing or ability to collect their own forces. That being said, many of the students have indeed, purchased their own models to supplement the ones that I have so that they can tool up the club forces and/or build their own preferred forces over time! It has been pretty awesome to see the growth and interest in this hobby through the eyes of these kids. One now has a Cephalyx army in progress, another Cryx, 2 student owned khador forces, 1 menoth, 1 legion and one circle are all now in the works!
As they paint up their models I will be featuring many of them here on the site for all to see.
Ditto for Khador - Impressive big Jacks but I think we can do even better...
The trick/problem on my end is that in gathering up enough starter armies for everyone to play it becomes extremely difficult to ensure that everyone has some nicely painted stuff to feel proud to play and to develop a connection to in those first days of trying things out. I have the Khador and Menoth starter box models all painted up (Pictures/articles about doing them HERE, HERE, and HERE ) but now I am looking to find ways to get plently of my other faction forces together and looking good to fuel young imaginations. So I have decided to start "speed painting" a variety of forces that I have - using all the coolest tricks and shortcuts that I have learned over a lifetime of figure painting. The goal is to crate models that, while they wont win me any awards, will look as good or better than the majority of armies seen on gaming tables (remember we are looking to inspire!) and can be done FAST!
My weapons of choice for this project....
Up first are the boys (and girls) in Blue - Cygnar, bastions of humanity, technology, tolerance and civilization in the Iron Kingdoms. While this may be overstating it a little, Cygnar are generally cast in the hero/good guy role - as such I will be painting them in a clean and bright manner with minimal battle damage and a strong colour palette. Inspired by painters like Schnauzerface, I will be tackling these guys mostly with my airbrush followed by a few keen shortcuts to a good looking finish.
From a friend I got a good deal on a trade for some Cygnar, specifically a Morrowan force based around Constance Blaize and precursor knights:
Blaize
1 Full Precursor unit, with UA
Charger light warjack
Lancer light warjack
Captain Jonas Murdoch (character UA)
Murdoch is the real star of this list as he allows Merc units to become full on Cygnar units. This way, despite the narrow focus of the rest of the army, my students could try out a variety of different unit/playstyles in conjunction with this. They have almost exclusively decided that Ogrun Assault Corps is the unit of choice - giving necessary fire support while also being beefy enough to take a beating. That Murdoch gives them the assault special rule just makes them a beautiful place to park some list points and terrify opponents..... I hope to add an additional caster and unit (long rifles or stormblades perhaps) to this sometime during the coming year and I already have a firefly and hopefully a couple heavy jacks coming from a friend in the near future. I also have some Gun Mages in my merc. collection that help round out the options for the kids.
After cleaning the models up, I hit them with a chaos black primer from below followed by light Grey Primer from AMMO of Mig Jimenez (This stuff goes on thin and beautiful) and finally a spray of VMC Foundation white across all upper surfaces to create basic highlights and shadows on the models.
After this I cracked open my Badger Freak Flex Tints (basically the same thing as the Ghost Tints that Schnauzerface and Mathieu Fontaine have been singing the praises of for some time now but in an older packaging line) I used teal and blue to blend in some simple layers of a transparent colour over top of the preshaded primer coats.
The result is a great series of colour transitions that are rich enough to pop and which blend into my desired apex white colours in various areas. Look at these (admittedly crappy) phone pics to see what results are possible with this method and try to tell me that it isn't pretty darn cool.
First colour passes - still a few more layers to go.
Here you can really see it starting to come together on the Charger
Weapons and skin were base coated with a brush, white was tidied up and a bright lime green colour was gently airbrushes on gems/arc nodes/glowy areas etc. for a little pop of colour
Here is one with the shield attatched, skin tone was given a wash, weapon and armour each with one dry brush and washed with the same AMMO of Mig tracks wash that I washed the skin with.
Here is a small selection of the final washed and highlighted pieces - completed over my lunch hour in less than 2 weeks (16 figures in about 7 lunches/probably 5 hours total including basing):
A great little force for the students to throw down with! I have also ordered the trencher master gunner solo to use with season two of the Riven Bonds campaign and I hope to expand it soon with another caster and a unit (preferably a shooting one - probably long gunners and/or black 13th for character!) If anyone out there has good suggestions please let me know :)
